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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, MentawaÃÂ¯, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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By Bondi Bill
Racial Tolerance --Global Wisdom - Well the Cronulla- so-called--"race-riots"----bunch of beat up stories by serial story spruikers and editorial whooorers--poor sweet innocent Lebo's get attacked while having a quiet day at the beach---yeah right pull the other one. Their idea of a quiet day is to piss everyone off for years--beat up a volunteer life-saver--annoy chicks and call them Aussie sluts--while treating their own women like vestal virgins---why am I telling you this? I come to the Islands on holidays ,solo, to get shacked and sacked (if I'm lucky).The Brazil-nuts are up to there old tricks-- ruining a line up with "rent-a-crowd". Not to mention "shoulder-hopping" bullshit---which with ten dudes, all together ,raises their machismo and bravado. Cronulla.Same but not the same. Just that it feels the same to me.Fucken annoying and on the nose.Political-correctness in a global-world--If you wrap a steaming turd in red velvet--call it what you like.
By I know
danger - One palm is more shallow and heavy except that the crowds at derserts make it more dangerous--ie--getting tied up in a knot by a brazilian
By been there got beat
very fast--very shallow - Both are very fast and very shallow although one palm might get the edge on the shallower and nastier reef the crowds at deserts make it more dangerous--ie kooks paddling out and bailing their boards or just getting your ass kicked by some brazo
By speed racer
duh - both are fast and hollow except that desert point has like 50 to 60 guys in the water---good fun if you like getting dropped in on
compare - How does One Palm Point compare to low tide Deserts in terms of speed & shallowness
latin machismo - Why can't you brasilians or peruvians travle solo? What are you so afraid of? You are sooo macho with your pack of 15 friends. Doubt you'd act so tough traveling solo. Get a clue already. you act like wankers.
speed racer lives - Got a funny feeling DP Kevino wrote the note captioned "heavy as" by wishing I was there. And thanks Randy for the kind words you wrote titled "wishin" by racer X. Kind regards Speed Racerps. your Latin's improving Dale
sasumu - That was one of the gnarliest things I've seen. But, I knew he'd bounce back. He's a samurai.
wishin - You're a fukwit. Speed has spent probably years, literally, in the tube at the point. I'm talking actual time in the tube, not counting all the feral land time he's chocked up. When you're down in the fall zone, wishin "please fall", he's the one who took the set wave from out the back, sitting deep as, and making nearly every one, all the way thru. nos vemos pronto pelon
By wishin i was there
Heavy As - Haha who the fuk do u think u r calling desert's a hoax speed racer? U obviously haven't surfed it on a 8'swell with a full moon mid-low tide rushing out. We r talking about barrels u can fit a truck in, this is most definitely one of the heaviest waves in Indo that deserves much respect and the heaviest wave i have surfed. So fuk off back to kuta and eat ya sudies and surf kuta reef ya fuk wit. If u can't surf big long, heavy and super shallow barrels stay away and leave if it for the real chargers. Not a wave for the faint harted. Take off and watch it grow from 4ft to 10ft shallow shutdowns 300m down the line. Awesome wave if u love big long left hand barrels i certainly do.
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