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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Indonesia, East Java
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Datum: WGS84 [ Help ] |
Latitude: 8° 16.767' S |
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If you arrive in Pancitan and you face the bay its located totally on the left side at the river mounth. DistanceIn the city WalkShort walk (5-15 mn) Easy to find?Easy to find Public access?Public access Special accessDon't know |
Surf Spot Characteristics
Surf Spot Quality
Wave qualityRegional Classic
ExperienceAll surfers
FrequencyRegular
Wave
TypeRivermouth
DirectionLeft
BottomSandy
PowerFast, Powerful
Normal lengthLong (150 to 300 m)
Good day length
Tide, Swell and Wind
Good swell directionSouthWest, South
Good wind directionNorth, East
Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 3m+ / 10ft+
Best tide positionLow tide only
Best tide movementFalling tide
More details
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdEmpty
Dangers
- Rips / undertow
- Pollution
Additional Information
From Solo take (typical java) 6 hours busdrive south to Pacitan. Tell the busdriver to stop at the happy bay beach bungalows-entrance and walk your way (about 800 m) to the beach. This is the only accomodation near the beach. Everyone will notice, smile and waive to you when walking to the bungalows and probably in no time the 5 local indo's will appear in front of the bungalows to invite you to come surf!!! The locals told me there are some excellent reef-breaks and secret spots nearby. Didn't had the time to check it out.,,,,but they told me that if you would be surfing them naked nobody would even noticed it !!!
Atmosphere
This is a Mundaka (Spain) like rivermouth-break. When I surfed the spot it was about 4-6 ft feet and perfectly peeling left. The only 5 locals in Pancitan (there are no more surfers) begged me to tell everybody to come surf here. I had a blast with these guys in the water yelling each other into waves and screaming and laughing all the time. Felt like i was living the endless summer right at the spot! If you come do not forget to bring wax for these guys .... they surf on half broken boards with so little wax its amazing they even can snap the lip!!! For sure one of my best surfing experiences ever!!!!!!!!!!
General
A real Indo-experience!!!!!!!!!!
Author: Stephan Kidane Contributors (1)
Comments
By mas_rama , 20-05-2006
Sometimes there sometimes not (the bank) - I have surfed this left before,had it relly fun the first time i found it a few years ago head high perfect lefts but have checked it nurmerous times over the last few years and it is a very hit and miss spot,being mostly sand bottom(there is a few patches of reef near the takeoff) the banks move around a lot,sometimes a close out,sometimes very sectiony,sometimes to deep to break and yes ocationally perfect.Not the best spot to surf in the wet season either, very dirty and lots of logs in the line up.I have also spent a lot of time searching for waves in this area as my wife family live in solo and this is the nearest beaches.There are good waves around here,but it is relly relly fickle,more fickle than most areas in Indonesia and without the quality,there is no coral reefs here just beaches and very uneven bottomed rocky reef's and ledges the coastaline is also extreme verey rugged with mountains reaching to the sea it takes a lot of time to get from spot to spot and even with my wife being Indonesian it's hard to get a private bemo at a good price(once you have gone as far as you can on the set bemo routes) the onshores also seem to get up much more early than a few hundred km west or east.Overall if you have months to months in Indonesia and are in the area check it out you might be lucky, it's very scenic.But if your after Indonesian quality waves your wasting your time although you will have it to yourself and just the local groms if you surf the beach in town or the rivermouth.
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By whats my name , 25-05-2007
oh yeah - its willy wonkers chocolate wave!