Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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go to swansea head light house and look south and you will find a bunch off reefs. pilos or smor-gas-board is about 150-200 metres out and is the one furthest south DistanceTake a car WalkShort walk (5-15 mn) Easy to find?OK Public access?Public access Special accessPaddle > 20mn or Boat |
Alternative name smor-gas-board
Wave qualityRegional Classic
ExperienceExperienced surfers
FrequencyRegular
TypeReef-coral
DirectionRight and left
BottomReef (coral, sharp rocks etc..)
PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful, Ledgey
Normal lengthShort (< 50m)
Good day lengthShort (< 50m)
Good swell directionSouth, SouthEast, East
Good wind directionNorthWest, West, SouthWest
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+
Best tide positionMid and high tide
Best tide movementRising tide
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdEmpty
- Urchins
- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Localism
- Sharks
Atmosphere
this break is best suited to a bodyboard but a well honed stick could maybe surf it. just dont be rat the the local bodyboarders or they will burn you forever. its a very ledgey break be carefull there is caves and sharks
General
sick house break world class
Author: Anonymous Contributors (1)
By willyb , 30-05-2012
- fuck you, you go out pilo 3 things going to go down, number one, the reef going to shred you. number 2 the sharks are going to eat you. number 3 the nilla crew going to cut you. you were warned!
By Anonymous , 21-04-2008
heya - pilo is shit, no one can get barrled there, including me tom winter
By the bellie high boys , 06-06-2007
45 year old sole surfer. the true local - back in the 90's there was a group of lads that surfed clockies near every day. it was a combination of swansea and belmont boys that went to bellie high. the only other people we saw out there was a ledgend sole surfer. there was a few occasions when we showed up at the crack of dawn only to see the ledgend solie already out. we became good mates with him showing him respect. he was a 45 yearold stand up surfer. he recons b4 we started surfing the joint he rarely saw anyone else out. surfer joe lambo leesy aubo gillies vaughano hunt and griggsy were the boys that stayed at joes pad and learnt from the ledgend himself. in the mid 90's we decided to surf the island. but thats another story. ps the island is eppic.
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