Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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A short hike up the coast path from Stanbury Mouth. A bit of a mission getting down the cliff.Get down to Stanbury mouth via the road sign above Morwenstowe satellite station. Once you are stood on Stanbury beach, look left and there is inner point (stanbury right) and as you look out the back, it's right out and continues from that point. DistanceDay trip WalkLong walk (>30 mn) Easy to find?Hard to find Public access?Public access Special accessDon't know |
Wave qualityRegional Classic
ExperienceExperienced surfers
FrequencyVery consistent (150 day/year)
TypeReef-rocky
DirectionRight and left
BottomFlat rocks
PowerHollow
Normal lengthShort (< 50m)
Good day lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good swell directionWest, SouthWest
Good wind directionSouthEast, East, NorthEast
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to 2m+ / 6ft+
Best tide positionLow tide only
Best tide movementRising tide
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdEmpty
- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
Follow the advise for Stanbury. Be careful though, cos its really remote and access is pretty sketchy.
Atmosphere
Absolutely epic reef. The wave comes out of deep water and unloads on a shallow slab, giving an easy barrel. Probably one of the best waves on this stretch of coast...if you can find it.
General
Author: Anonymous Contributors (1)
By anonymous , 28-11-2003
That's bollocks - The rock sticks right out of the water at low tide and at higher tides it is still stuck out. There is no wave here at all. The wave in this area is Stanbury at high tide on a big swell and then you can't get out of the water! Good luck. this bloke is having a laugh.
By rudehedgemonkey@hotmail.com , 26-11-2003
It's here. - Get down to Stanbury mouth via the road sign above Morwenstowe satellite station. Once you are stood on Stanbury beach, look left and there is inner point (stanbury right) and as you look out the back, it's right out and continues from that point. The question is, are the spots of North devon coming out next. This little splurge by wannasurf indicates something bigger to come. I reckon they have decided to pull the plug on all the secret spots that people sent in. They have missed out some important ones out though........If you're interested in finding new spots/exploration. I'm on the case.
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By janimal , 05-01-2006
its real and its sick - sure its a bit rocky, but thats better than some flappy beachbreak, init? i've had some fuckin good waves here.