Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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User rating (9)
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DistanceDay trip WalkShort walk (5-15 mn) Easy to find?Hard to find Public access?Don't know Special accessBy boat only |
Wave qualityRegional Classic
ExperiencePros or kamikaze only...
FrequencyRarely break (5day/year)
TypeReef-rocky
DirectionRight and left
Bottom
PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful, Ledgey
Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good day lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good swell directionNorthWest, West
Good wind directionEast
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft and holds up to 5m / 16 ft and over
Best tide positionLow tide only
Best tide movementRising and falling tides
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdEmpty
It is a mysto break way out the back of downend.This is a very dangerous big wave spot that hardly anyone no's anything about. This break can be a good tow in spot as well. Board selection is key.
Atmosphere
It is North Devons cross between the Cribbar and Jaws!
General
Author: Anonymous Contributors (2)
By Anonymous , 02-11-2006
sweeeeet! - The first guy to surf this was called "Paperboy" ages ago apparently and although, yes, this sometimes can be a load of hyped rubbish on those really clean conditions with the tide right it really does produce awesome waves. Get well soon to Ralph, the guy who's surfed it the most, who broke his neck surfing croyde about a month ago. Not exactly Jaws and The Cribbar crossed more like a tamed Mavericks but by British big wave standards this is good and should hopefully be surfed more often, just don't go out there without a jet-ski
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By Anonymous , 20-12-2006
A man who knows. - I paddled out there on my 9ft longboard back in the early eighties a few times had a couple of good sesions, but to be honest the point is a far better wave.