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Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Secrets
USA, Hawaii, Oahu
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Access
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DistanceTake a car WalkInstant access (< 5min) Easy to find?Hard to find Public access?Public access Special accessPaddle > 20mn or Boat |
Surf Spot Characteristics
Surf Spot Quality
Wave qualitySloppy
ExperienceExperienced surfers
FrequencySometimes break
Wave
TypeReef-coral
DirectionRight and left
BottomReef (coral, sharp rocks etc..)
PowerPowerful, Fun, Slab
Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)
Tide, Swell and Wind
Good swell directionNorth, East, NorthEast
Good wind directionNorthWest, SouthWest, South
Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+
Best tide positionLow tide only
Best tide movementRising and falling tides
More details
Week crowdCrowded
Week-end crowdUltra crowded
Dangers
- Urchins
- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Private beach
- Localism
- Sharks
- Shark protected
Additional Information
Super long paddle out--not even worth it. Only breaks good during a few times in the summer. Don't come here unless you know the reef, or else you WILL almost kill yourself.
Atmosphere
Dry reef, especially on low tide. Close outs all over the place. Locals are protective over the spot--have no clue why. They should surf town instead.
General
You should probably go to town if you want more safe waves and more consistent surf and not crazy dry reef and long paddle outs.
Author: Anonymous Contributors (3)
Comments
By Anonymous , 04-11-2008
Toes - If your goofy foot, then check out toes reef because the left is the best. Just go to kawaikui beack park which is across the street from hawaii loa ridge entrance. Be respectful to the locals and malama o ke kai.
By Anonymous , 28-07-2008
Talofa? - Isn't 'Talofa' a Samoan word? Can a Samoan be a true local in Hawaii? Are you a true local at Secrets? Are you one of the very few Hawaiians in Hawaii who are 100% Hawaiian? Living in Aina Haina? Eh, Talofa! Whoever you are, you is one stupid bugga to think the ocean belong to you and you millionaire ohana @ Aina Hana. Am I rhyming yet? Then hear this: Talofa one big joka, his mouth go yaka yaka and he drive a jacalaka, wants one priveledge in da ocean, but he just one midget Samoan!
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By Anonymous , 28-07-2009
Same spot? - Not sure if we surfed secrets but surfing at kai is awesome because there's no crowds! other then locals that have been more then willing to share there waves.