Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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Datum: WGS84 [ Help ] |
Latitude: 11° 3.989' S |
User rating (34)
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By the Panamericana Norte highway; at the km 152 of Huaura must take the detour of 5 Km through the beach. DistanceTake a car WalkInstant access (< 5min) Easy to find?Hard to find Public access?Public access Special access4x4 |
Wave qualityWorld Class
ExperienceExperienced surfers
FrequencyVery consistent (150 day/year)
TypePoint-break
DirectionLeft
BottomSandy with rock
PowerHollow, Fast
Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)
Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)
Good swell directionNorth, South
Good wind direction
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+
Best tide positionLow and mid tide
Best tide movementRising tide
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdEmpty
- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
Secret Spot, Magical,Classical, perfectly,very consistent with all swells. No crowd. Not too much people knows about it. You can't miss it ! One of the best Peruvian Spots. This is a complex wave. Entry in and out of the water is dead easy even when its big, but the outside section suits experts and intermediates only, the inside section can be ridden even by beginners. Outside it breaks very close to rocks you definitely need to be aware of, starting on the furthest rock outcrop on big set days (about 8-10 feet). The takeoff here is intense, and sometimes impossible, jacking and pitching with backwash and sidewash, with crunching, thundering lips. You can take off an a routine 6 footer on the outside only to find yourself going backwards up the wave now an 8 footer, then embedded in the lip over the falls. The kind of place you can do nothing wrong and still get crunched. Locals talk about the "catapault", a lip which throws you way out in front of the wave if you are unlucky enough to get a sidewash combine with a big takeoff. There are several rocks in this zone, especially toward the last rock outcrop: Ive seen tourists turn up and miss it by a few feet, not even knowing it was there. Even the locals take this section seriously. You can be rewarded with a great powerful crunching wall for about 100-150m on the outside, before you get to the last rock outcrop. Size outside is from 4 to 10 feet. Then there is the inside section, which is usually mellow and can be ridden by beginners, holds from about 2 to 7 feet. You takeoff at the last rock outcrop and can ride for a further 200m, or so. Definitely best at low tide, and when there is more sand in the bay, holds southwest wind but south wind is a touch choppy. West swells best, but any swell will do, best at 6 to 8 feet, southwest wind, I give 7 or 8 out of ten, depending on the sand buildup
Atmosphere
Great atmosphere, the wave is so quality that there is now a new Surfcamp in front of the beach, with bungalows, security and a very natural enviroment. The wave is actually a popular surf campsite and many people have been robbed while camping there. Stories of thieves coming in at night and holding people up are many.
General
Really fantastic surfing sessions, and without crowds. A beautiful spot but thievery is a regular occurance. Not as bad as it used to be, but still be cautious.
Author: Alfonso Morante Contributors (1)
By Anonymous , 06-02-2008
centi... - Is the hotel still down in front of the point? I only visited that place last year and it seemed really cool except for the recent robbery of some surfer at the point. I was surprised to see police all the way out there! I am heading back in May 2008, anyone know if the family fued is over yet? Perhaps I'll stay south or go to chicama.
By todd , 26-08-2007
I wouldnt stay at Hotel Fundo at the moment - I would give the hotel in front of the break a big miss until the family shit is sorted out between Tato and his ex-wife...we were there in Mid August 2007. Currently, the place has no running water or electricity and the guy running it (Tatos ex-wifes Brother, Pedro) still wanted to charge US$16 per night, per person!!. Tato is currently not running the place. We did meet Tato in town one day, and he told us that since there was no water, electricity and under renovation, we can stay for free. We told this to Pedro and said he only listens to his sister (who is living in Lima). She wanted to charge us. So we stayed one night and was charge for 1.5 nights (as we arrived at 6am.. but Pedro didnt tell us that!!). So all in all it was probably the worst experience i have had at a surf hotel/hostel, as being in the middle of a family feud is shit!!..So i wouldn't go there until all the family issues are resolved. Which i hope is soon, coz Tato seemed like a really cool guy and the place looked great (and from all reports on this site, Tato had it running great).. albeit it is lacking maintance now and dogs look half starved. But u can still surf it, i stayed in town at a cheap hotel (15 soles per night) and took a taxi to the beach each day and organised a pick up a few hours later (14 soles round trip). This still worked out cheaper than staying at Hotel Fundo with the cost of food etc. Sorry to Tato for the bad review, but i think its important for other surfers to know what's happening and so that they dont have to experience what we did. Hope you get everything sorted out soon and can update us..Todd
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By Anonymous , 01-04-2010
Warning: Meantime dont stay - Thanks to corruption the guy known as Pedro Lopez is illegaly renting the place without water and electricity, robbing their belongings when they are out surfing