Teiki Mathieu Baillan surfing a self-made Alaya surfboard in Macaroni, Mentawaï, Indonesia. Photo by C. Naslain, 2009.
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drive from victoria to metchosin, follow Rocky point road to the end (8km) drive past DND gate no problems. (just tell them your visiting for the day) surf break is stright ahead. DistanceTake a car WalkShort walk (5-15 mn) Easy to find?Easy to find Public access? Special accessDon't know |
Alternative name big guns
Wave qualityRegional Classic
ExperienceExperienced surfers
FrequencyRegular
TypePoint-break
DirectionRight and left
BottomBoulders
PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful
Normal lengthShort (< 50m)
Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)
Good swell directionWest, SouthWest
Good wind directionSouthEast, East, NorthEast
Swell sizeStarts working at 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft and holds up to 3m+ / 10ft+
Best tide positionMid tide
Best tide movementFalling tide
Week crowdEmpty
Week-end crowdFew surfers
- Rips / undertow
- Rocks
if guys at main entrance refuse you entry,just park back from gate and sneak under fence along treeline way from gate ,20min walk to point. really good secret spot.
Atmosphere
even locals have not found this one yet.
General
Author: greg Contributors (1)
By Anonymous , 15-02-2007
this is a head scratcher - I have been intensly curious about this spot since it was posted. It seems to me that the description of the wave and the photos of the wave just don't match. Experienced surfers???? really?? c'mon!!! Granted the pictures might have been taken on a small day but really, I have seen beginner spots around the world get bigger than this. It hardly seems worth climbing under fences and all types of crazy recon commando sneaking around for this wave. The nickname of "big guns" also leads me to be suspicious, I have surfed almost maxed out Sombrio on a 6'2, so how much more of a gun would anyone need for this? This is not Todos Santods after all. And boat trips? Really?? for a wave that seemingly breaks 6 feet from the beach. Wow you got me confused all right. I bet you I could name 5 far more interesting secret spots that aren't on this site. I don't want my pass to get revoked so my lips are sealed. If you are dialed in, you know where they are.
By mdgall@hotmail.com , 27-06-2006
Mastur Bator - You are such a sad, sad person. I live in Philadelphia, PA and drive over an hour to surf this fickle East coast all year long. Be happy with what you have, not angry with what you can not control. You are doing all your fellow countryman a disservice by sounding like a typical US meathead. Oh no! The MP's are going to clean me up real good. Thanks for the laugh, loser.
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By Anonymous , 31-08-2009
ack - just stay out, had a fun surf but got caught, held me for a few hours , I missed work and got fired..